| The distributor in your Range Rover classic is like
an analog computer. It's the brains that makes sure that the spark
reaches each cylinder at precisely the right time for any given speed
and load. Get there too early and you can have pre-ignition, or
knocking. Get there too late and you lose fuel economy and power.
Timing that is early can also lead to engine overheating, or if it's
late it can lead to cherry red exhaust manifolds and burned valves.
In addition to the rust problem, the distributor
springs can break and the vacuum advance can spring a leak.
Another very common problem with these is self-inflicted. When
removing a sticky rotor, it's possible that the "top hat" that holds the
two moving shafts together can snap.
If you have a Range Rover "Classic" with a regular
distributor, there's a good chance that the distributor advance will
become frozen some day. If you off-road in the wet or wash
your engine regularly, even more moisture will get into the distributor
housing. Even here in the relatively dry So. CA deserts mine locked up
and the only symptom was a loss in fuel mileage and a slight loss in power.
Yep, there are all sorts of possible problems that can
occur. To the first timer the thought of trying a home brew
rebuild can be intimidating. Not to fear, pulling and rebuilding the
distributor isn't as difficult as it seams.
To Be Continued........
Parts issues.
Diagnosis
Vacuum advance.
Mechanical Advance
Pulling the dist. (alignment
marks, etc.)
The rebuild
Re-installing the dist.
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